Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Marina Di Chioggia Heirloom Winter Squash Seeds

Marina Di Chioggia Heirloom Winter Squash Seeds

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Product Feature

  • Full sun
  • Plant seed 1/2" to 1" deep
  • Optimum soil temperature between 70 and 90 degrees
  • Sow indoors 4 weeks before last frost
  • Space plants at least 4' apart

Product Description

80 days. Heirloom. Originally from Venice, Italy. Marvelously smooth orange flesh is pleasantly sweet; flavor enhances in storage. It's dark blue green rind is full of lumps and bumps that we call its character; we love it for fall decoration as well as for eating. Fruits average 8 to 10 lb. Open pollinated. 35 to 40 seeds per 3 gram packet.

Marina Di Chioggia Heirloom Winter Squash Seeds Review

I already grow Chioggia beets which are the very best beets and I have been growing Mother Hubbard Squash and Galeux D' Eysines squash so I'm into large warty vegetables.

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Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Nature's Wisdom Food Grade DE (D. E.) 10 lb.

Nature's Wisdom Food Grade DE (D. E.) 10 lb.

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Product Feature

  • 100% Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (Fossil Shell Flour)
  • Organic Gardening and Supplement
  • Indoor and Outdoor Organic Insect Killer
  • Flea, Tick, and Lice Control for Dogs, Cats, and other pets
  • Natural Garden Insecticide (Bug Killer)

Product Description

Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth is totally organic and safe. It contains less than 1% percent of Crystal & Silicon. Some of the uses for Diatomaceous Earth include; household pets, gardens, flower beds, field crops, grain storage, and livestock feeding. Diatomaceous Earth is Mother Nature's product with no harm to the environment, pets or to people. Diatomaceous Earth is not an earth, it is the fossilized remains of microscopic shells created by one celled plants called DIATOMS. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action, not chemical, by puncturing the insects exoskeleton and absorbing its body fluids, thus posing no harm to warm-blooded life. Moreover, on any surface, these natural pesticide products have a remarkable repellency factor. As long as it is present, insects tend to stay away, making a serious infestation unlikely. Also, the more it is used, the more an environment is created that tends to make insects feel unwelcome. Out of 600 deposits in the US only 4 are considered "food grade" by the FDA standards. Other food grade deposits still may contain higher amounts of sediment and clay that make them less effective. We have analysis of many other "Food Grade" deposits and are satisfied that we still obtain the diatomaceous earth for our products from the purest fresh water source.*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

Nature's Wisdom Food Grade DE (D. E.) 10 lb. Review

The first thing you need to realize when you learn you've got bed bugs is that you don't have a battle on your hands - you're in a FULL BLOWN WAR.

Bed bugs are very tenacious insects and they show signs of climbing the learning curve. You're going to have to annihilate them or they'll come back. Getting rid of them involves work and commitment. Fortunately, once you finally get rid of them, they're loathe to return. Diatomaceous earth will get the job done but if you want to succeed you have to be smarter and more persistent than the bed bugs.

I first learned we had bed bugs when I saw something like a brown pill bug, but a lot faster, charging at me across the sheets. I squashed it and it exploded in a dime sized blood stain. I realized to my disgust that we had bed bugs - and that was the reason for the small red marks on my wife's and my arms and legs. We had what I'd consider a small to moderate infestation - maybe 200 bed bugs total (for every full grown adult you see there are about ten smaller ones in various stages of development). We learned a few things along the way:

1) Forget about pesticides. PESTICIDES DON'T WORK WITH BED BUGS! Bug spray doesn't work. Bug bombs don't work. Pesticides just drive them into hiding... for a while.

2) Alcohol kills them, but only a few at a time. The survivors scamper off into more remote hiding places. Extreme cold kills them too but has to be applied in such a way that none are missed. Heat kills them VERY well. Bed bugs can't stand temps above 115 F for more than fifteen minutes. Exterminators are now using 200,000 BTU heaters to heat houses, apartments and rooms to 140 F for an hour. Bed bugs can run but they can't hide from heat. But thermal extermination is expensive and doing an entire house can cost over $5,000. Diatomaceous earth kills them too. It's the cheapest way to get rid of bed bugs - but you have to be thorough, persistent and systematic. DE won't kill them immediately as it's not a pesticide. It takes a couple days to start working - and it takes a while to get them all.

3) You're the bait! Bed bugs love us and take great risks to suck our blood. Many of them die in the effort. They're most active between the hours of three and four am but they'll change their schedule to whatever yours is if need be.

When I discovered we had bed bugs I bug bombed and sprayed them. But it quickly became clear that while they didn't like it, it wasn't killing them. That's when I finally understood we had a lot bigger problem on our hands than I first thought - our own personal hell. Fortunately for bed bug sufferers the Internet has lots of information about how to fight them. Maybe too much. After a day spent studying the problem I came up with a plan: diatomaceous earth.

Diatomaceous earth comes in two grades: pool grade, which is poisonous to people and pets; and food grade, which is the stuff you want to use. It's very light and powdery, about like flour. It contains tiny, glass-like shards that work their way into the soft spaces of insect exoskeletons, cutting them up and causing them to dehydrate and die. Bed bugs don't seem to recognize it as a mortal danger and once it gets on them they can't get it off.

We dusted diatomaceous earth all around the bed, on the mattresses, underneath the bed and in the bed frame screw holes and any crevices, on the headboard, rails, legs and everywhere else. Then I dusted behind, inside and underneath the bedside tables and dressers, along the baseboards, in all the drawers, etc. Everywhere a bed bug might hide. Trust me, they're very good at hiding and if you make life hard for them around the bed they'll move their base of operations to a further corner of the room and bide their time.

We also put plant pot saucers filled with diatomaceous earth under each bed leg. This is real important because once you've defeated the ones hiding in your bed the only way those lurking elsewhere can reach you is by passing through it. As much as possible turn your bed into an island surrounded by an ocean of diatomaceous earth.

Use double sided tape around all the bed legs, on the headboard, etc. They won't try to cross it and will in fact turn back around as soon as they encounter it. What you want to do is create choke points that force the little buggers to have to pass through diatomaceous earth in order to get at you.

Mattress covers for the top and bottom mattresses. These are very important. Bed bugs like to hide in mattress seams - and in the hidden recesses of box springs. Leave the mattress covers on for a long time too because they can live up to a year without feeding; and check the covers periodically to make sure there aren't any holes or tears they can climb in or out of, because they will definitely find them. Also, if you've got anything: dust ruffle, sheets, blankets, bedspreads, etc. that touch the floor, take them off because bed bugs can and will use them as an avenue to get to you.

Light colored sheets - to see them better. The little ones are light tan colored, tiny, and a lot harder to see than the bigger ones - which are 3/16 of an inch long and dark brown. Dark sheets show up the little ones better. Light sheets show up the bigger ones. Also, after nibbling on you they poop little black spots - which are a sure sign of bed bug infestation. I went with light colored sheets which worked fine as I could see adults and nymphs, as well as any poop spots. Dark sheets hide their poop stains, so avoid them. Also, it's a good idea to wash your sheets daily for the first week or two because they're laying eggs like crazy.

We got everything out from under the bed and put ALL our clothes, bedroom stuff etc. that bed bugs could hide in, into black garbage bags, then sealed them and put them out on the back patio to heat up for a couple hours in the summer Sun. Black garbage bags absorb the Sun's rays and turn the insides into an oven. I measured the temp inside and it was 132 F! If it's cold when you learn you have bed bugs you could probably use a blow dryer on low setting. You just have to get the temp in the bags up to 115 F for fifteen minutes. Eggs take longer to kill but they can't survive 115 F for more than an hour. The more heat you create the faster they die.

Vacuum your floors - 2-3 times a week for a couple of weeks or more depending on how many there are. You want to suck up any eggs that have fallen to the floor or any bed bugs that are crawling around. Concentrate on the spaces under and around your bed and base boards. If you've got hardwood floors it'll make your job easier as there are fewer places for them to hide and you can see them, and signs of them, better. Also, if you have a canister type vacuum it'll give you an idea of how many you're killing. Re-apply the DE as necessary. I used a paint brush and turkey baster. DE's very powdery and floats like dust but it doesn't take much to cover a large area. Some have complained about how dusty it is, but ask yourself this: what would you rather have to deal with, a little dust or bed bugs?

Even after all this we were still getting bitten - though much less. We found a few hiding between the new mattress covers and killed them. A few days later we were bitten again. Taking the bed apart we found a half inch hole in the mattress cover surrounding the box springs. It had some little black poop stains near it. The bugs that'd been trapped inside found the hole and came out to feast. We sealed it with some scotch tape.

We next found some crawling up a table lamp cord and marching across the bedside table! I've no doubt they were headed for the sheets that were brushing against the table. I moved both bedside tables a foot away from the bed then thoroughly dusted the table tops, cords, electric receptacle boxes (which they use as hideouts), etc... but we still got some bites - though less than at any time in a month. We then took the bed apart and using a flashlight, magnifying glass and dentist's mirror, searched every nook and cranny. Sure enough, some were hiding in screw holes. We'd already treated the bed frame and screw holes with diatomaceous earth, but it hadn't stuck to the tops of some of the screw holes... and that's where they were hiding. I killed these and we put the bed back together.

About a week went by without any bites but we were still suspicious and took the bed apart again. Lo and behold two adolescents were hiding in a small worm hole in one of the slats. I killed these and prayed we were finally nearing the end our disgusting problem. But just to be sure we took the bed apart and thoroughly inspected it weekly another four or five times. By now we were familiar with every nook and cranny of our bed. We also checked all possible hidey holes around the bed. All told we spent around a month and a half in our bed bug war and the mop up missions... BUT WE WON THE WAR! And we've been bed bug free since September 2011.

We didn't think we'd ever get bed bugs but we learned better. They're everywhere now. If you're waking up with unexplainable red marks, and/or your sheets start showing little black spots, you need to ACT FAST. At the first sign of an infestation take your bed completely apart and INSPECT EVERY INCH OF IT: mattress, frame, inner box springs, headboard, legs... everything. A flashlight and magnifying glass are helpful here. You may be shocked at how many you find. You can vacuum them up and/or squash them with paper towels. Squashing them is messy but hydrogen peroxide will clean up any blood stains. Toothpicks work well on the ones hiding in crevices and holes. You'll learn to be impressed by how cleverly they hide. Don't go light on the diatomaceous earth either - this is total war.

Once you've cleared your bed of them the ball's back in your court. But you can still pick up eggs on your feet and carry them back into the bed - thus the importance of vacuuming religiously. If you go a week without getting bitten it shows you've made progress, but the war ain't over yet. Many are still lurking around, so you need to keep checking for them. If you go a month without getting bitten you've probably won the war but it's a good idea to leave some diatomaceous earth in the plant pot saucers under the bed legs, and along the baseboards too, for several more months - in case some are still hiding out. And inspect your bed a few more times too, if only for peace of mind.

I might add that if any of your family, friends or visitors report bed bugs at home - or at work - you should immediately buy some diatomaceous earth in anticipation of when they show up at your place. Pre-emptively dust your base boards, especially in the bed rooms, because they use base boards as highways and hideouts. Most of them stick pretty close to the bed but for some reason some go solo and you can find them anywhere in your house.

I can only surmise that the people who neg diatomaceous earth are less intelligent and/or persistent than bed bugs. Or maybe they're exterminators. Who knows? Diatomaceous earth is a real deal killer for exterminators if it's used properly. It just takes a while to get them all.

The key to defeating bed bugs is to understand you're up against a wily and resourceful adversary who's not going to leave without an ugly fight. A hit and a miss doesn't work with them. The sooner you get started the better because the more there are the harder they are to get rid of. If you decide to go with diatomaceous earth you learn their habits and hideouts. You make life at your place dangerous for them and kill them off by percentages in a series of running battles until all are gone. There may be multiple battlefields: your bed/mattress, framework, under your bed, the baseboards, bedside tables, chairs, blanket boxes, behind picture frames, electric boxes, loose wallpaper, lamps, dresser drawers and everything that's in them, closets, curtains, etc. Like I said, the main thing is to first get them out of your bed and turn it into an island sanctuary; then go on ruthless search and destroy missions for any others.

Remember... you're the bait! But by using yourself and your loved ones as bait you'll lure bed bugs into a diatomaceous deathtrap. It's a great feeling to be able lie peacefully in your bed again without wondering if you're being silently stalked.

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Monday, June 20, 2011

2 Lbs of Azomite - Organic Trace Mineral Soil Additive Fertilizer - Handy Pantry Brand - 67 Trace Minerals: Selenium, Vanadium, Chromium

2 Lbs of Azomite - Organic Trace Mineral Soil Additive Fertilizer - Handy Pantry Brand - 67 Trace Minerals: Selenium, Vanadium, Chromium

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Product Feature

  • 2 Lb. Resealable Bag - Handy Pantry Brand
  • Organic - 67 major and trace elements
  • Perfect for Gardens
  • All Natural
  • NOTE: For gardening use only. Not for human consumption.

Product Description

A to Z Minerals- A Complete Organic Fertilizer A Source of Minerals & Trace Elements Azomite is the name of a special rock in Utah. Early this century geological prospector Rollin Anderson found deposits of montmorillonite clay in a valley south of Salt Lake City. U.S. Bureau of Mines analysis showed the clay is similar to Chilean/Peruvian caliche rocks from which much of the world's nitrate was mined. Anderson ground montmorillonite as fine as possible, then put it in his garden. Results were amazing and nearly immediate. Minerals in Azomite are necessary to optimal metabolism in living things. Ground to dust, minerals are small enough to pass through cell walls of organisms.

2 Lbs of Azomite - Organic Trace Mineral Soil Additive Fertilizer - Handy Pantry Brand - 67 Trace Minerals: Selenium, Vanadium, Chromium Review

I was hesitant to order this product because my tomatoes were growing okay, and I thought that was about as good as they could grow, but I was amazed at the immediate results I got when I added Azomite to the soil. When I added only one tablespoon of Asomite mixed with 2 gallons of water, I could hardly believe my eyes when I checked my tomatoes after work the very next day. They seemed to have jumped up about five inches overnight! Honestly, I could hardly believe it. I am a rank amature in the gardening department, but I didn't have to be a pro to see that this product works. I'll never be caught without it again.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "2 Lbs of Azomite - Organic Trace Mineral Soil Additive Fertilizer - Handy Pantry Brand - 67 Trace Minerals: Selenium, Vanadium, Chromium" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from 2 Lbs of Azomite - Organic Trace Mineral Soil Additive Fertilizer - Handy Pantry Brand - 67 Trace Minerals: Selenium, Vanadium, Chromium ...

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Sunday, June 19, 2011

Hydroton Leca Clay Orchid/Hydroponic Grow Media - 2 lbs.

Hydroton Leca Clay Orchid/Hydroponic Grow Media - 2 lbs.

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Product Feature

  • Made of 100% natural clay. Pebbles are of uniform, round shape. Inert, pH-neutral, clean and decorative. Comes in a 2 lbs. package.
  • For Orchids - Hydroton's porous structure provides excellent aeration and acts as a water reservoir.
  • The size of the pebbles is perfect for medium to large Cattleyas and Laelias.
  • For Hydroponics - Ensures good root aeration and prevents rotting, excess acidity and soil pests.
  • Will approximately fill: twenty-four 2" pots, or eight 3" pots, or two 5" pots.

Product Description

Hydroton clay pebbles are made of 100% natural clay. Hydroton is inert, pH-neutral, clean and at the same time, decorative.Potting media for Orchids - Used alone or in combination with coconut husk chips, bark, charcoal or other orchid media, Hydroton's porous structure can provide excellent aeration around the roots while its ability to act as a water reservoir will be appreciated by your orchids when water is needed. The size of the pebbles is perfect for medium to large Cattleyas and Laelias.Hydrophonic/Hydroculture media - The capilliarity and the structure of the clay pebbles ensures good root aeration and prevents rotting, excess acidity and soil pests.Drainage - Compared to gravel, Hydroton is lighter and can act as a water reservoir. Hydroton can then release the water when its surroundings needed it.Decoration - With its red color and mostly round shape, Hydroton is often used as a decorative top-layer for indoor plants and outdoor gardens. As a top layer, it will also prevent the top soil from drying out quickly.

Hydroton Leca Clay Orchid/Hydroponic Grow Media - 2 lbs. Review

When I received this order I was shocked to find the hydroton loose in a postoffice mailer bag, and the quantity was little more than enough to fill one orchid pot. 2 pounds sounded like a lot but it isn't. I then looked at other Amazon offers and found another for 11 pounds of hydroton for $22.67 or $2.06 per pound compared to this one of $11.74 for 2 pounds or $5.87 per pound -- that is almost triple the price. The product is the same but the price is not even comparable. PS Since my review was published they even raised the price to $12.99 making it more than triple and even worse.

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Saturday, June 18, 2011

Miracle-Gro 1001232 All Purpose Plant Food - 5 Pound

Miracle-Gro 1001232 All Purpose Plant Food - 5 Pound

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Product Feature

  • 24-8-16
  • For all flowers, vegetables, trees, shrubs, and houseplants
  • Indoor/outdoor plants
  • Feeds plants through the roots and leaves
  • Contains Chelated Iron & 5 other trace elements plus soil penetrant Use in the Miracle-Gro Garden Fe

Product Description

Miracle-Gro Plant Food Will Give You Bigger,
More Beautiful Plants. Guaranteed!

You don’t have to be a great gardener to love the beauty of a lush, colorful gardenscape. You just need to make sure plants have the essentials: soil, water, sun and food.

Sure, plants can live with soil, water and sun alone, but they thrive when they’re fed -- even just a little.

Like all living things, plants need nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - all found in Miracle-Gro All Purpose Water Soluble Plant Food - help plants develop strong roots and grow bigger plants, lush foliage and more flowers.




Using Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Plant Food

Miracle-Gro All Purpose Water Soluble Plant Food is great for feeding both indoor and outdoor plants.

To feed plants indoors, simply mix 1/2 teaspoon of plant food per gallon of water and apply every two weeks.

To feed plants outdoors, Water Soluble plant food can be used with the Miracle-Gro Garden Feeder, or in your watering can! Feeding with the Miracle-Gro Garden Feeder is easy - simply adding one feeder packet to the feeder will cover 500 square feet in about 12 minutes. Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Plant Food is also simple to use in your watering can. Simply mix 1 tablespoon of Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Plant Food to one gallon of water. Each gallon will feed ten square feet of flowers or vegetables.

 

Miracle-Gro 1001232 All Purpose Plant Food - 5 Pound Review

This plant food will help your plants grow and get lots of green. However, if you are looking for blooms, once your plants get more mature, you will do better to cut the nitrogen and get more phosphorus.

Miracle Gro Bloom Booster is the right formulation to feed already grown plants to get them to bloom often and with large blooms.

I use both foods, but at different times of the year.

The labels of each will give you the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash.

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Friday, June 17, 2011

Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade 5 Lb

Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade 5 Lb

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Product Feature

  • Control of hard shell insects (fleas, ticks, ants, roaches, beetles, bed bugs, etc); Will not harm earthworms.
  • Elimination and prevention of worms and internal parasites without chemicals
  • Improved coat and hoof condition
  • Fewer flies due to preventing fly larvae from developing in manure
  • Safe for Human or Animal Consumption

Product Description

CELATOM AFA Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth is the purest Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth we have found; based on each companies published analysis. MN-51/AFA (Animal Feed Additive) is a CODEX Food-Grade natural diatomaceous earth (D.E.) product composed of microscopic diatoms that were deposited in ancient lake beds. These diatoms are made of amorphous silica in complex lacy shapes, which promotes a high absorption capacity and makes AFA an ideal product for anti-caking applications in grain and animal feed storage. AFA is non-toxic and safe for the environment. The benefits of D.E. as a natural insecticide for grain storage, garden, and animal use are well-established in practice. Natural D.E. powders have been used by farmers for centuries. With the increased popularity of organic and sustainable farming methods, more and more livestock and pet owners are re-discovering the natural benefits of D.E. as an animal feed additive. We cannot make claims about internal therapeutic benefits because of the prohibitive expense of the clinical studies that would be required by the government. However, many livestock and pet owners that have used AFA over the long term tell us they have experienced: When insects come in contact with diatomaceous earth, the D.E. absorbs their protective wax coating and their shells are damaged by the glassy diatoms. This combination causes them to die by dehydration. There is no survival and no built-up immunity as there is with chemical insecticides. D.E. also does not break down as chemicals do, and the more that it is used, the more insects feel unwelcome in the area.

Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade 5 Lb Review

I used DE in my home becuase of bedbugs. It has been about a month and i havent seen one since. I reccommend food grade DE as a safer non-toxic pesticide. In the home, left undisturbed it should work for months, I have never used this outside.

I reccommend buying a specific pump to be used with DE and also a face mask for application.

If you have bedbugs, first get treated by a professional and then use DE as a preventative. Ask how to apply for maximum effectiveness (yes this works if done correctly). Also visit bedbug websites to learn more.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade 5 Lb" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade 5 Lb ...

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Thursday, June 16, 2011

General Hydroponics Ph 7.0 Calibration Solution - 8 Ounces, 1 bottle

General Hydroponics Ph 7.0 Calibration Solution - 8 Ounces, 1 bottle

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Product Feature

  • Highest quality electronic meter reference solutions
  • For meters using the NaCl scale
  • Each batch is checked to ensure calibration

Product Description

General Hydroponics uses the highest quality electronic meter reference solutions. Growers can use our reference solutions widely among many popular brands of meters using the NaCl scale. General Hydroponics technicians check each batch to ensure that our solutions are exactly calibrated each time they are used.

General Hydroponics Ph 7.0 Calibration Solution - 8 Ounces, 1 bottle Review

How do you review a calibration solution? Heh. Well, it worked and seems to be, as marked, exactly 7.0. It seemed to be a bit expensive, especially since you're not supposed to re-use the solution once you've stuck the pH tester in it. Use a small, skinny glass!

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